Edelrid Ace Harness
3rd Apr 2019
A super lightweight harness that’s surprisingly comfortable. This comfy yet minimalist harness, with 4 gear loops and fixed leg loops, is one I’d choose for pretty much any and all climbing types, except perhaps big wall trad expeditions.
Comfort & Fastening system
The webbing for both waistband and leg loops use 3D-Vent Lite technology, which offers a great fit and surprisingly excellent comfort. The webbing (High-Density PolyEthylene or HDPE) is fairly broad which spreads the load evenly, yet feels very minimalist, also allowing great breathability (though I’ve not used it through the summer yet).
The 15mm buckle on the waistband is auto-locking, as is predominantly the case these days. It’s extremely user friendly, with a minimalist feel and a smooth action that feels secure when fastened. Of note, the smooth action feels like it should remain long into the life of the harness, rather than some of the battles I’ve had with previous harnesses, where the material fluffed up, making it frustratingly difficult to adjust after just a couple of years use.
I always prefer fixed leg loops, again for a minimalist feel. The slight elastication gives a snug, comfortable fit whilst enabling you to easily put it on or off when wearing crampons.
Sizing & Weight (277g - 315g)
The Ace comes in a wide range of waistband - leg loop combinations, enabling a perfectly tailored fit.
My waist is 32in so I got the Small (waist 69 - 84cm or 27 - 33in) though I perhaps should have opted for the M/S version, with the same size leg loops but slightly larger waistband (75 -90cm or 29.5 - 35.5in).
A minor detail but the Small is advertised by the manufacturer as 277g but mine was 283g (with their Large version weighing 315g), but it still feels extremely light compared to my previous all-in-one harnesses.
The small size weighs just 283 grams, giving one of the lightest options on the market for an ‘all-in one’ harness. I’d use it for anything from Indoor routes, outdoor trad or sport, redpoint or multi-pitch. Although I probably wouldn’t use it for a big wall tradventure I’d definitely use it for a multi pitch sport route. I’ve also spent some time hanging in it for a while this winter, whist shunting some routes on the grit, and not once did it feel uncomfortable. The attachment loops for ice screw clips mean it also works as a winter harness.
Gear loops
As I mentioned above, I perhaps could have gone for the next waistband size up but, with that taken into consideration, it still feels like the gear loops could be positioned ever so slightly further forward, particularly for trad-climbing where a large rack might be carried.
The front gear loops have a thin plastic coating, giving a more robust positioning whilst clipping/unclipping gear. The back gear loops don’t have the plastic coating so are slightly more flimsy, making it a little harder to clip/unclip, particularly when carrying a very large rack. That said, I’m sure this is something I’ll get more used to after a few more trad outings as Spring arrives…
With no gear loop around the back, there is a ‘chalk bag loop’. I never use this for a chalk bag, but if I’m trad or multi-pitch climbing, I often clip a pear shaped screw gate through it which offers an additional 5th gear loop for extras such as spare screw gates, belay device, slings, prusiks etc.
The attachments for ice screw clips (one on each side) weren’t big enough to take a large version of the Petzl Caritool. However, a smaller version is available which I’m sure would fit.
Summary
Granted, it’s been rather longer than it perhaps should have been since I last got a new harness, but this is by far my favourite so far.
A fantastic all-rounder - super light yet very comfortable, I can’t imagine needing another one for anything for a while now, roll on Spring!
Video & photos Marlene Direct E7 6c (Nescliffe) and Cool Moon E7 6c (Curbar)
Purely for testing purposes of course, I took a 25 footer off an E7 at Nescliffe whilst wearing it a couple of weeks ago. I didn’t notice anything at all, which can only be a good thing.
Reviewd by Ben Heason